Ok this place must be in every hip guidebook because there is always a line. But it’s worth the wait. Food is reliably good and you generally get your protein served with sautéed veggies on a bed of greens and tomatoes, with some rolls on the side, which is all pretty unusual for Cuba. If you’re eating paleo, this is the place for you. The drinks are as good as the food. And it’s all pretty cheap—$4-$5 a dish and $3-4 for a cocktail.
Plus they have a sense of humor, with funny posters on the wall and a plaque at the door that translates to “Hemmingway Was Never Here”—a play on all the bars and hotels around Old Havana that advertise how Hemmingway stayed there or sat there or took a piss there. Apparently this place used to be a bit of a rough-and-tumble, anything-goes kind of bar (whatever that means in Cuba) until they turned it over a few years ago. Now it’s more of a small restaurant, albeit with a dope rooftop bar.
Just be ready to wait in line–it’s usually a hour or more. But a Tu Yuma tip: the gallery next door sells a pretty decent piña colada, which isn’t a bad way to pass the time in line.
Calle Teniente Rey (Brazil) between Bernaza and Cristo, Habana Vieja (across from Parque Cristo)